Life Beyond Scarcity

Life Beyond Scarcity (To Others, Through Others: Lutheran World Relief's Quarterly Newsletter, May 2007)

By Phillip Otterness

In past decades, Americans came to the La Reyna community seeking gold.Today, they come for a very different reason. Recently, a delegation studying Fair Trade in Nicaragua visited coffee growers in La Reyna and the eco-tourism project they’ve developed with help from Lutheran World Relief. What they found there were hopeful people growing a bright future from land once scarred with injustice.

After a long journey through the highlands of central Nicaragua, our bus drove across a muddy pair of beams spanning a running stream and into the Danilo González Cooperative. We had traveled to meet the coffee growers here and to see how their involvement in the Lutheran World Relief coffee project had affected their lives. 

As we stepped off the bus, children ran to greet us, followed by their parents. Julian Antonio López Díaz, the co-op’s president, gave us a warm welcome. “I hope we can feel like family, even though we come from different places,” he said with a smile. Inside a schoolhouse, where 40 children now receive an education thanks in part to community revenues from Fair Trade activities, he recounted the history of his community.

The Danilo González Cooperative is nestled in the mountains just outside the town of La Reyna. Rich in natural beauty and resources, La Reyna was once the territory of indigenous people. Around 1900, the Nicaraguan government sold the land to a North American couple who built a large coffee plantation there.

Soon after, American prospectors came in search of gold and established a large mining operation. For a time, the mines brought jobs and income to La Reyna. But after the foreign owners pocketed their profits and packed their bags, the community was left to deal with lung ailments, a damaged ecosystem, and unemployment. What was once a lush, tropical valley suffered from massive deforestation and water scarcity. Tuberculosis, first spread in the mines, was passed on to children.

And only a handful of workers were hired on the large coffee plantation; most were forced to find temporary jobs in other communities. In 1986, the Nicaraguan government increased taxes on landowners and the plantation was abandoned by its owner. After years of living as landless peasants, the community of La Reyna took this opportunity to come together and acquire legal rights to the land under Nicaragua’s agrarian reforms, resulting in the formation of the Danilo González Cooperative.

Making a living growing coffee is challenging. Downward fluctuations in global commodities prices have bankrupted many small farmers. But in La Reyna, the cooperative has survived by selling 30% of its coffee on the Fair Trade market, which guarantees a consistent living wage, access to credit, and a direct, long-term relationship with buyers. This relationship is sustained in part by Lutherans who purchase coffee through the LWR Coffee Project.

Today, 26 families are part of the cooperative. Together they grow coffee and subsistence crops, and process their coffee in a central “wet mill” to prepare it for sale. Members feel that thanks to the success of their co-op, their future is finally and securely in their own hands. Slowly, the people of La Reyna have brought their community back to life. And life was exactly what we found, in abundance, throughout our visit; around the generously laden dinner-tables laid out by our gracious hosts, in the yard playing games with the children, and among the rows of coffee trees, where we picked bright red “cherries,” each containing two coffee beans.

Over dinner, Pedro López expressed his gratitude for those who support Fair Trade. “We are fortunate. My family eats well, thanks be to God. But it’s not like this for everyone.”

“The cooperative has always been open to help anyone,” said Díaz. In the past, they have provided firewood and assistance with land titling to residents in La Reyna.  Now, selling on the Fair Trade market, they receive a yearly social premium to reinvest in the community.  So far they have built a school, a medical center, and a housing project in La Reyna.

Now the cooperative is reaching out beyond La Reyna to those interested in learning more about the coffee growing process. Lutheran World Relief has helped them set up an eco-tourism project, which has become a source of extra income, as well as pride, as community members are now able to showcase their remarkable accomplishments to interested visitors from around the world.

Asked about what the future holds for the co-op, Díaz was quick to respond. The next project? “Fixing that bridge!”

-----

Thanks to Dan Lee and the communications team at LWR for editing and improving this article.


Day 17 (Monday, 01/15/07)

check notes.  did we fly out mon or tues??

Day 16 (Sunday, 01/14/07)

a.m. Early departures

am Noon departures 

Big taxi to Granada w/ ___ & ___, __ & __, Tim and Josh.

Open sewers, wading feet into sewage water!  Cafe w/ suspicious couple.  Feelings of artificiallity/take over in Granada... like disneyland... or an ex-pat retirement community.  Beautiful church...

see notes, i forget.

Day 15 (Saturday, 01/13/07)

7:30am  Breakfast at CSJ

      8:45 am Talk with Carlos Pacheco, Economist and trainer who has worked with grassroots organizations. Currently working for Trocaire. Talk on Free Trade Agreements, Coffee, Fair Trade.

      Below I have copied a link to an article Carlos recently wrote:

      http://www.trocaire.org/

      11:00am Depart for Masaya

      Visit the Masaya Volcano National Park (Active Volcano)

      1:00am Lunch in Masaya

      1:30pm Visit Craft Market, Opportunity for people to pick up gifts for family and friends

      3:30pm Travel back to Managua

      5:00 pm  Final wrap up

      7:00 pm Dinner at CSJ 

Day 14 (01/12/07)

            7:45am Breakfast in Hotel – Check out

      8:30am Depart for a Visit to a Coffee Lab project with Soppexcca (Jinotega). [www.soppexcca.org/en/] Explanation of what it’s Soppexcca and its relationship with LWR. Talk with Rigoberto Pineda representative of Cooperative. Brief personal introduction by Leonardo PinedaPresident of Board of Direcctors. Participate in a coffee cupping session led by Javier Gadea. Learn about the importance of quality control and how this can be used as a marketing tool.

      1:00pm  Lunch at Soda El Tico (Diner)

      3:00pm Return to Matagalpa and then continue on to Managua

      6:30pm Dinner at CJS 

Day 13 (Thursday, 01/11/07)

            7:00am Breakfast in Hotel

      8:00am  Leave for a day with LWR led by César Castillo Project Director of LWR.

      Travel to La Esperanza (Hope) Cooperative. Meet with members of the Board and members of  Cooperative. Learn about the progress of the cooperative and the different challenges they have encountered for their development.

      Members of the Board of Directors of Coop:

      Enrique Manzanares – President

      Melania Villarreyna – Vice-President

      Mercedes Zelaya – Treasurer

      Anastasio Herrera – Secretary

      Otoniel Arauz – Coordinator of Internal Control

      Antonio Laguna – Oversight Board

      From CECOCAFÉN: Felix Pozo and Francisco Gutiérrez

      12:00pm Travel back to El Tuma La Dalia

      12:40pm Lunch at La Dalia

      2:00 pm Visit Women’s Collective supported by Project CIPRES/LWR. They work on growing, processing and commercializing medicinal plants and conserved products.

      Women present involved in processing medicinal plants: Rosibel Guido and Norma Elena Martínez.

      Woman that showed us and explained biogas at her house: Aidée Centeno

      Cipres/LWR rep: Javier Mondragón

4:20 pm  Return to Matagalpa

7:00 pm Dinner at  Hotel San Tomas

8:00pm Group Reflection 

Day 12 (Wednesday, 01/10/07)

7:00 am Breakfast with families

8:00 am Depart for Matagalpa and then on straight to Solcafé

      9:45 am Tour and explanation of reception, drying, storage and milling process of coffee at Solcafé, CECOCAFÉN’s dry mill. Tour given by Javier Galo.

      11:10am Talk on CECOCAFEN’s work (Central of Coffee Cooperatives of the North).  By Javier Galo

      1:10pm Go back to Matagalpa and have lunch at Mana del Cielo

      2:40 am Visit Casa Materna (Serves Peasant Women with High Risk Pregnancies)

      Talk with Kitti MaddenLucila Mantilla (Midwife) and with pregnant women staying at Casa Materna

      5:00pm Check into Hotel Lomas de San Tomás – Matagalpa

      7:00pm Dinner at Hotel San Tomás 

      Optional reflection

Day 11 (Tuesday, 01/09/07)

no notes for this day

picking coffee in the early morning with kids
picking coffee in the late morning with group - monkeys, red cherrys, hard work..
carrying my half-filled bag down the hillside while guys carried 2 full bags on their backs
tour of the wet-mill process, drying, etc  (I think someone else had notes online?? Summer?)
climb up mountainside... got shoe muddy...

      AM Breakfast. Spend time with host families.

      9:00 am Together as a group go to a Coffee Plantation and pick some coffee.

      11:00 am Stop picking coffee and have an explanation of the wet milling process that happens after coffee is picked (washing and sorting out)

      12:00pm Lunch together at the Cooperative dining house.

      1:30 pm Observe de-pulping process of coffee picked by group.

2:00 pm Go on a hike to a look out recently built by community members

      4:30pm Cultural presentation by community members, followed by evaluation of visit with community members.

      5:30pm Spend night with families

Day 10 (Monday, 01/08/07)

Travel out to ___

FRANK LANZAS - PRES of ASOCAFEMAT
see notebook page

Travel to homestays...

LOS DANILLAS COOP - w/ CECOCAFIN
"I hope we can feel as family even though we come from different places."
history - Julian, Emerta

SEE TOTO ARTICLE

notebook page WHERE INK CHANGES TO BLACK
After the presentation, we were each introduced to our homestay families.  Myself, Tim and ___ stayed with Pedro and Beralina Lopez and their 3 children.  We lugged all our stuff up the beautiful hillside as the sun set behind us, Pedro carrying a huge water jug.  .... MORE!!!  LOVELY!




Day 9 (Sunday, 01/07/07)

Sunday we attended church at ___.  Afterwards we talked with the pastor,  the femail bishop(?) of ____.  She told her story of___and of the transformation of the Salvadorian Lutheran Church in Exile into the Nicaraguan Lutheran Church.  Afterwards a group of kids arrived in the back of the church and greeted their families, each name called out as they entered.  They had just returned from a retreat.  Very moving how even the teens were hugging their parents in front of the congregation.  We all ate, church basement style.  Sang Amazing Grace w/ kids & parents.  Someone from our group later remarked that these kids, so vulnerable and affectionate, were the same age as many of the violent revoluntionaries.


In the afternoon we hopped back in the tour bus and were taken on a driving tour of Managua.  The original downtown had been flattened by an earthquake in 19__ and many blocks remained abandoned, grassy fields or rubble - __ years later.  We drove through a slum and passed the crumbling remains of an appartment building; people still lived there, we learned.  People also lived in the remains of what was once the hotel where visiting statesment stayed.  In these slums, red and black Sandinista flags were flying everywhere.  Memorials to the revolution were scattered everywhere in the city.  The present was inendated with the past.  We drove up a hill where the Samoza palice used to be... remains of tanks... memorials... the giant Sandino siloette that looks out over the city.  The elevated lake where people were dropped after being detained in the torture dungeon.  Sobering.  We visit the old national cathedral and assembly, destroyed in the earthquake... that boy gives me a palm leave grasshopper.  (<---THIS WOULD SOUND BEST LAST LAST)  We stop by the new national cathedral built with money from the founder of Dominos who also supported the Contras.  Kids outside hamming it up for the cameras.  Cute, except for the one yelling "bitch" to anyone who wouldn't buy the gum she was trying to sell.

We drove past the first maquiladora in central america.  The workers there earn minimum wage, which is $140 a month.  The cost of living for a single mom is $350 a month.

All the new FSLN ads are bright pink.  Daniel has gone "metro"!

That night, I wrote down my first impressions of the country.  See FIRST IMPRESSIONS pages in notebook.

Day 8 (Saturday, 01/06/07)

On our first morning together as a group, we took a tour bus (incredible luxury compared to our previous digs) to the Center for Global Education.  (NOTE:  If you followed John Nelson-Pallmeyer in the 2008 MN senate race, this is where he taught in the 1980s.)  The center has existed since the early 1980s to help raise awareness of international issues among Americans.  It is based out of Augsburg College in Minneapolis.  When we arrived we were introduced to  our Nicaraguan guide for the week, Juan Lopez.


Next, an American who has taught at the center since 1987, Mark Lester, soliticited questions from our group.  "What went wrong with the Sandinista revolution?"  "How has Nicaragua been impacted by free trade agreements?"  "Where are the poor placing their hopes right now?"  "Has global warming affected agriculture?"  He answered these by presenting us with a whirl-wind history of his adopted country - the indigenous traders before Columbus; the slavery and disease introduced by the conquistadors; Britian and Spain's struggle for imperial control; the titling of indigionous land to euopeans; the Sandinista revolution and reforms; the violent destruction of the Sandinista government by the US backed Contras; the introduction of neo-liberal economics; the impact of the past on modern day economics, culture and politics.  Nicaragua, he said, has never gelled as a nation-state.  It remains a country devided along lines of wealth and poverty, ___ and native, conservative and liberal.  ________cont________.


After lunch, we drove to Lutheran World Relief's headquarters to met with Cesar Castillo and Bill Weaver.  They gave an overview of LWR's work in the region.  They explained LWR's philosophy of partnership and accompaniment.  ____.   The biggest focus of LWR's work in Nicaragua are supporting farmers, small scale businesses, environmental risk management and nutritian and health.


Starbucks sells 75,000 tons of coffee every day.  The farmers LWR supports have sold 400 tons of coffee on the Fair Trade market over 10 years.  Although  Fair Trade represents only a drop in the bucket of the global coffee market, it has allowed some communities to build schools, establish youth programs and increase access to health care.  Furthermore, it represents an example of alternative way of doing business that actually works.


EQUAL EXCHANGE PRESENTATION
see that page in notebook.


THAT NIGHT
"What do you hope to get out of the trip?"
"What is this trip costing you?"
"What do you intend to do with your experiences when you return?"

Day 7 (Friday, 01/05/07)


Friday we had chocolate chip pancakes (mmm!)  at the hostel and set out for the center of Leon.  Unlike the previous night, the streets were full of people and did not seem so dark and foreboding.  We were looking forward to learning more about the history of the city, which was once the capital of Nicarauga and which continues to serve as Nicaragua's educational and artistic hub.  It is home to many universities, revolutionary political groups and, inexplicitly, an abundance of dental offices. 

At the center of town there were markets with merchants who yelled as we passed by, trying to entice us to stop at their tables.  There was an old cathedral with two lions carved out of stone gaurding the tomb of Nicaragua's beloved poet, Ruban Dario.  There were murals on the sides of buildings depicting the country's history of revolution and upheaval.  In one, a snake labeled "CIA" is biting a hand reaching for a ballot box.  In another, Sandino is standing tall with one foot resting on the head of Uncle Sam.  While viewing a series of murals I was accosted by an over-eager tour guide who insisted on giving me her interpretation of the artwork.  I tried to tell her I didn't understand Spanish, but I ended up giving her some cordobas for her enthusiasm and persistance.

As Tim ate a cheeseburger he bought from a vender, I walked into a nearby Catholic church.  Taking in the scent of votive candles and listening to the echo of my footsteps, I looked around.  On the other side of the church I noticed an unusal display.  Dozens of ceremic houses were hanging on a wall, each painted in bright colors.  When I walked closer I noticed there were names written on each house - a reminder to pray for each family in the church, I thought.  And on one house, "the people of New Orleans" - a reminder that the human family has no borders.

I walked out.  As Tim was finishing his burger a boy approached him asking for money.  Tim paused.  The kid pointed at his burger.  Tim held out the remaining half of his burger and the kid eagerly took it and split it with a friend across the street.  "It broke my heart to see a child so thankful for a half-eaten burger," Tim said.  While we offer our leftovers to Nicaragua, Nicaragua offers us it's prayers.

Later we visited the site of an old church bombed out by the besieged Somoza government during the revolution.  It was only a week since Christmas and there was a painted plywood nativity scene set up in the remains of the structure.  On top of the former alter was the holy family.  In the grassy former nave there were depictions of peasants walking in from the fields carrying gifts of corn and coffee.

We attempted to find a number of museums the guidebooks recommended...there was so much to see in Leon and we only had an afternoon.  The museum dedicated to the city's famous poet, Ruban Dario, was closed for lunch.  The Museum of Traditions and Legends (located in an infamous prison) was closed for the day, but we snooped around the front yard to look at some scultures.  We finally found a museum that was open - the Casa de Culturo.  This museum housed a collection of art and offered spanish lessons.  There was a musician struming a guitar in a courtyard.  ... bought a great cd (find a way to post on blog?)...

travel back to managua...meeting the group....we arrived late...they saved us dinner...real fruit juice...mmm

That night Jim introduced himself and shared some thoughts on the trip.  We introduced ourselves.  The Equal Exchange people introduced themselves and the fair trade concept.  We talked about what we hoped to get out of the trip.  Questions, etc.   --- As pastor Jim was talking, I wondered "would Jesus have turned the tables in the temple if the merchants had been selling Fair Trade products?"

Day 6 (Thursday 01/04/07)


Thursday we set off for one of the most important cities in Nicaragua - Leon.  We took a bus to Managua and in Managua took a taxi to another bus station.  After nearly boarding the wrong bus several times a shuttle van pulled up and we confirmed that this one would take us to our destination.  We were packed in like Sardines, and when the gentleman sitting next to us made the sign of the cross as we departed, we braced for another wild ride.

We pulled into Leon as the sun was setting and the van came to a stop in a dark, run down campesino village.  We began to walk around looking for a hotel or hostel.  We must have been walking for two hours and Tim was scarred we'd be mugged.  Some streets were empty, while others were littered with people cooking over fires in the street.  There were no tourists and we felt very out of place.  We tried asking a couple women about hostels but the language barrior was too great.  Eventually we caught a taxi and asked the driver to help us find a place to sleep.  "How much money?" he asked.  "What?" we said.  "Little?  Much?"  "Ah.  Somewhere cheap... little money."

We ended up at a very lively hostel.  The lounge was full of music and young people.  Here at last we were among other travelers.  We locked up our heavy backpacks, found a restaraunt and gave our legs a bread over dinner. 

TO BE CONTINUED...

Sorry to leave this journal unfinished! Life is busy, but I will return by years end, hopefully, and fill you in on the rest of this trip... including my stay with the coffee farmers up in the mountains.

Until later, Phil

PS: If anyone has been following news of hurricane Felix in Nicaragua, you can support recovery efforts by donating to Lutheran World Relief - http://www.lwr.org/emergencies/07/Felix/index.asp

Day 5 (Wednesday, 01/03/07)


The day began with breakfast at a little market. We picked up some veggies to save for lunch, walked around town and went back to the hotel to rent bicycles. The hotel's bicycles had all seen better days, but we eventually settled on two we thought we could make do with for an afternoon. The man who rented us the bikes pointed out several beaches on a map that didn't look too far away. We packed our knapsacks and rode out of town on a little dirt road.

San Juan del Sur is a small city, used to visitors, but not overrun by them. There are a number of language schools, and even a Subway restaurant (the only western chain I saw outside of Managua). Someone told us that there was hope more jobs would be created when cruise ships began docking at the city's port a few years ago. As it turns out, passengers are usually bussed by the cruise provider further inland to Granada or Masaya. That's not to say the town isn't changing. There are modern housing developments springing up in the hillsides surrounding town filled with northern retirees looking for cheap real estate.

Beneath the glass-walled houses atop the cliffs are dusty old neighborhoods home to more typical Nicaraguan dwellings. Biking through one of these neighborhoods we stopped at a convenience store for water. A group of friends was loitering in the store, and among them was a man in a wheel chair, with no arms. Of all the amputees I saw on this trip, he made me feel the most discomfort. The missing limbs were a reminder of Nicaragua's anguished past. Was it a land mine that got him? Fighting for the Sandanistas..or the Contras? Whatever the case, he sat there watching me, limbless, as I paid for a bottle of purified water and jumped back on my bike.

Speaking of bodily injury, I ended up with a scar on my hand that day inflicted not by human folly but a mischievous monkey. Riding our bikes, I was having a ball. My bike was functioning and I had sunglasses protecting my eyes from the dust that a strong wind was blowing up off the road. Tim, on the other hand, had a bike that was refusing to shift gears and had no glasses to protect him from the dust. So we stopped at a little road-side store, hoping to borrow a tool to adjust Tim's bike. The monkey got me the moment I walked in the door.

Slow motion replay: First, I feel my sunglasses inexplicably disappear from my face. Next, I see the woman in the store look up and start to yell something in Spanish. Instinctively, I reach up. And before I can blink, my hand is in the mouth of this monkey who swings back out the door and around the corner of the shop, where it was chained up outside. My sunglasses were ok - the monkey threw them on the ground when the store owner came after him with a broom. My hand, however, was left with a puncture wound which the shop keeper promptly washed out with rubbing alcohol and bandaged.

We never got Tim's bike fixed. After the monkey incident we made our way to the beach, which was beautiful, but, given our predicament, we stuck our toes in the water and turned around. Tim abandoned his bike and hitched a ride in the back of a truck. I refused to let a monkey bite ruin my afternoon, so I biked back into town, and found a drugstore. After fumbling through some Spanish ("mono... mono mordisco!") I found out that there was a clinic in town. So I biked to the clinic and experienced Nicaraguan health care.

The clinic was small and busy. However, with the help of my phrasebook, I was able to explain that I'd been bitten by a monkey and request attention. One nurse nodded at another and they both laughed. I had been hoping for medical attention. Luckily the one nurse was kind enough to clean and bandage the wound again. After some more failed attempts at communication, I found out I could come back the next day if I wanted to see a doctor.

So, having done what I could, I met up with Tim again in the late afternoon and we biked out to a place where there were supposed to be petroglyphs. We never found the petroglyphs. But it was a nice bike ride. Dinner was delicious that night. Could it be that fearing for your health gives food a little extra kick?

Day 4 (Tuesday, 01/02/07)

Tuesday morning we hiked the trail circuit in the nearby nature preserve. It was a glorious day for a hike, windy and sunny. We took the loop in separate directions, and met in the middle, near a rocky point with a steep drop-off and trees that seemed to have been shaped smooth by the wind. There was a nice view of Volcan Maderas, on the other side of the island. Above us were birds, some bright blue, a few smaller yellow ones, and some that were big and hawk-like, gliding past sideways on gusts of wind like kites. I ran into a couple big clumps of beetles, clinging to the leaves of a tree, as well as another large insect, all of whom allowed me to let me get in close for pictures.

It was after lunch that we realized we didn't have enough money. We thought we had more. I swear. We wondered if we may have misplaced some Cordobas somewhere. Did we lock our door that morning? The ATM we had thought we would find up the road was but a rumor, and as it turns out, banks on the island were not able to access our Visa accounts. So we checked out of our hotel and walked to the bus stop, our heads bowed in shame for having budgeted so poorly. As we sat on the side of the windswept road, dust blowing in our faces, we munched on leftover nuts, looking pathetic, waiting for a ride.

It was at this point we met a couple very attractive French-Canadian girls, who I'd imagine a less sullen pair of young men would have wasted no time running off with on wild adventures. A school bus soon came chugging along, and the four of us jumped in the back door, stumbling over cartons of Bananas, squeezing into the few open seats. Alas, the Canadian sirens got off at the edge of town, and we continued on to the harbor, in search of financial solvency. We were stuck waiting again out on the dock, under the shade of towering crates of Toña, where we watched a young kid lunging shipments of flour, bananas and soap onto a truck. Luckily, we were not forced to take up similar labor in an effort to earn our keep on the island. We caught a boat before sundown.

Back on the mainland we took a taxi to Rivas. From there, we got bulk rate on another taxi by sharing it with a family of three, who crammed into the back seat with us. The ride to San Juan was truly terrifying. Bicycles in the road, weaving through piles of gravel and washed out sections, oncoming traffic passing on the shoulder, you name it. And this was the highway to a major tourist destination!

Good thing, because where there are tourists, there are ATMS. We stowed our belongings at the Hotel Elizabeth, and made our way across town to the holy grail, the pot of gold...the ATM, which shone with a heavenly glow, in all it's 21st century, neon green glory. A few keystrokes, and we had what we came for. Having accomplished our mission, we celebrated with a delicious fresh fish dinner at a beachfront taverna. Back at the hotel, Elizabeth, the proprietor, was as happy as we were that our wallets were now replenished.

It is worth pointing out that I had sunk into a bout of "the malaise" around this point in the trip - the odd depression that sometimes hits me. I think it was a combination of heavy activity, unbalanced diet, dehydration, personal dynamics, language anxiety and dealing with all of the trips contingencies up to that point. Sadly, I was under this anxious, depressive fog for the next few days...but not without moments of happiness and calm. I've gotten used to anticipating these periods, especially during travel, and waiting them out.

Went to sleep to the sounds of strong wind coming in off the Pacific ocean, through the open windows near the ceiling of our room.

Day 3 (Monday, 01/01/07)

We guessed, correctly, that busses on the island would not be running on New Years Day. This meant we were stuck in the little port town of Matagalpa until we could come up with another plan. Luckily, we found a entrepreneurial fellow letting a couple travelers onto the bed of his truck. We made an offer, pointed at a spot on our map, and hopped aboard. The open-air ride was great fun, and the scenery was enjoyable. Lots of locals walking along the road and the Volcano in the distance, topped with a Gandalf-like smoke ring. We got off at a hotel located near a nature preserve and a lagoon called Charco Verde. Rooms at this hotel were more than we had bargained for, but we were told we could find budget options nearby. So we walked along the shore of the lake for a half mile in search of cheap rest. Past the tourist beach, a boy was taking his horse out for a bath, and past that, we encountered the local laundromat - nine or ten women washing their clothes on little stone tables set up off shore, in the surf, and their children, playing on the beach.

There were birds everywhere! Ometepe is home to over 80 species of birds. I listened to them calling out to each other and gazed up at the sky as they swooped and dove and flashed their colors with no apparent motive. This got me thinking about Tim's reflections the night before. I wondered, "Is the need to live with 'purpose' overblown? Might one simply enjoy?" If we can learn enjoyment, I'd say we're doing pretty good. I found that worrying about my lack of Spanish skills was getting in the way of my serenity by this point in the trip. I was frequently filled with that feeling I get in class, when I might be called on at any moment, and I know darn well I haven't prepared an answer! I hadn't realized how exhausting the language work would be. But my enjoyment of the birds was welcome respite from these anxieties.

We took a walk. On the way, we a man from Nuremberg named Lothar Bode (lothar.bode@web.de). He was wearing a t-shirt with the Luther Seal on it. I had a bit of a tough time deciphering Lothar's German accent, but I made out that he was retired and had been to Nicaragua before. He told us about the Lutheran church in Nicaragua, and its strong-willed bishop in Managua who has been trying to make the church "more Catholic," to the annoyance of others (or Lothar, at least). He was trying to communicate something about a ghost I should meet at Baltimore's Harbor Inn, where he once stayed, apparently referring to a historical reenactor. Having made this Baltimore connection, to my amusement, I learned that he too knows Dave Schott! For those readers who are uninformed, Dave is a Baltimore legend, involved in all sorts of leftist activities, an illustrious contra dancer and bongo player, and a good friend to Lutheran Volunteer Corps folks like myself. His circle of acquaintances is wide, and, as we found out, includes this German man we met walking down the road on Ometepe. Surprise!

We continued on our way to the big hill, to the "Vista del Diablo." The devil in question was the Volcano, La Conception, a few kilometers to the east. We made our way up an impossibly steep trail, and enjoyed the scenery at the top - a spectacular view of the island, its volcanos, and the surrounding lake. A National Geographic documentary on bats was filmed on this hill, but we saw no bats. As we hiked, we engaged in conversation about "perspective," in general terms. There is always a temptation to interpret and systematize the world, to go for the panoramic view, but, as anyone who has taken photos on vacation knows, photographs of landscapes never do the reality justice. Perhaps we should focus more on the close-ups, pull out our macro lens, stick our noses close to the ground, and appreciate life's details and incongruities. I declared this to be an unofficial theme of my journey in Nicaragua; "zooming in" on the work LWR does there. I spend most of my days in an office overlooking Baltimore, communicating with people from all over the world and gaining an appreciation for LWR's structure and philosophy. But I had not yet had a single, face-to-face conversation with someone "on the ground" in a community where LWR works. Now was my chance.

Afterward our hike, I walked down to the lagoon, while Tim went back to meditate. I'm glad I continued on, because I soon ran into 10 or 12 howler monkeys all in a group, making a ruckus. I love monkeys and had never seen them in the wild before. Such mirthful, noisy creatures! After this I went back to the hotel and went for a swim in the lake at sunset. I watched as some horses came and took a drink from the water. One of them took "something else," at which point I waded back to shore and called it a night! We ate at an outdoor dining patio at the next hotel. Ended up running into Lothar again and chatting with him for a while, until a woman came scolding him for locking her out of the bathroom their two rooms shared...for the third time. I closed my evening by laying in a hammock for a while, enjoying the sound of the surf. When I went to bed, I felt like was still swinging in the breeze.

Day 2 (Sunday, 12/31/06)


I woke up early and had coffee with Rachel. She pointed out that most Nicaraguans don't drink real coffee, but instead drink the more affordable, instant, "Presto" brand (distributed by Payless, Nicaragua's biggest and wealthiest corporation). Soon there will be attempts to market Nicaraguan grown Fair Trade coffee in the city, to those who can afford it. But in a country where coffee is one of the primary exports, it remains a luxury item. She made the coffee by pouring boiling water through grounds in a strainer - coffee machines are not a typical convenience here. Nor are washing machines! While I read my guidebook and finished my coffee, Rachel washed her clothes in a tub in the backyard.

I spotted a lizard crawling up the backward wall, a pero son paca - "ant dog" - they call it. Beyond the wall come the sounds of kids yelling and setting off firecrackers. While coffee is not readily available, it appears that fireworks and firecrackers are, and it was New Years Eve. The kids are on break from school over the summer months of December and January, which are full of celebrations like the Day of the Conception of Mary, Christmas, New Years, and this year a national holiday celebrating the inauguration of the president elect, Daniel Ortega. We talked some, and played guitar with Martin singing everything from Jack Johnson to religious music to ‘What to Do With a Drunken Sailor.’   After that, we snapped some photos and walked with Rachel to the bus stop, where she pointed out the bus to Rivas, our next destination.

Tim and I squeezed aboard the crowded bus and we were on our way, truly on our own now! I was proud of myself for translating the bus fare from Spanish - 35 cordobas. This was one of those "Jesus buses" I had heard of; our risen lord and savior's likeness was printed in vinyl in the back windows, and we spent our first hour listening to a man standing in the isle giving a sermon. The man looked into my eyes and I looked down as I flipped the pages of my Spanish dictionary. "Pecado!"...sin. "Retribucion!"...payment. "Calendario!".. oh... I see... he was selling calendars. After he was finished, we spent the rest of the ride listening to songs on the bus drivers radio, like "Gangster's Paradise." I was admiring the paradise outside the windows...all the beautiful green plant life, scurrying humans, and a volcano looming in the distance.

In Rivas, we stopped at Pizza Hot, not to be confused with Pizza Hut. The lack of western chain restaurants in this country was a pleasant surprise. After a brief walk around town, we hoped a cab to San Jose, and were charged an 80 cordoba premium for our lack of Spanish skills. We would continue having difficulty establishing cab fare throughout the rest of the trip. Once we got to San Jose, we caught a little ferry boat across Lake Nicaragua to the island of Ometepe. I didn't get sea-sick, but it was a rocky ride! On the boat, we were joined by tourists, some boisterous Nicaraguan men, and a lovely Nicaraguan family on vacation with two kids who seemed to be as enchanted by the view as I was. The island we were approaching consisted of two impressive volcanos topped by rings of clouds and mist, rising out of the the blue waters, covered in green, tropical forest.

We docked in the port town of Moyagolpa, where we found a quaint hostienda to spend the night. Went out to dinner at El Indio Viejo, where we had some fun with three boys (Christopher, Jorge, and Gulerjo) who were setting off firecrackers a few feet from our table. Then we met Juan Alberto Galmes, a Argentinian man who was biking the Pan-American Highway from Panama City to Guatemala City, 70 kilos a day, 2000 kilos per month. He told us all about his travels, which he writes about on his website: www.sanluisembicicleta.com.ar. After dinner, we walked around town with Juan, past a big dance party, and past more kids throwing firecrackers into bonfires in the middle of the streets in celebration of the new year. A bottle rocket came shrieking to a halt a few feet away from Juan. Mom would love this. Lots of older folks sitting outside, enjoying the night. A truck rolled past carrying a mariachi-like band, filling the streets with festive music. An evangelical church service was in session, with a full crowd. We walked down to the water, enjoying the quiet warm night, cool breeze and the stars, and then back into town to wish everyone a happy New Year at the stroke of midnight.

Back at the Hospedaje Ali, the doors had been locked for the night. Thankfully, a guy pointed us to the back door, where the proprietor let us in. When Tim switched on the fan in our room, a lizard went flying off it onto one of the beds...which were lined with 101 Dalmatians sheets...classy, indeed! That evening, Tim got to talking, and it reminded me of being back in Crete with my monkish friend, Josh Wopata. Tim is a student at Texas Lutheran University, and is involved with the “emerging” church/alternative Christian communities. He was going on about his mentors and his spiritual preparation for the trip. I probably could have done more to prepare for this trip myself and I was impressed with Tim's intentionality and purposefulness. We agreed that we've both come to an appreciation of the priority of relationships, of "being" vs. "doing", etc. This reflection and contemplation was a fitting way to welcome in the new year, before falling asleep for the night. I slept well; the first full day of the trip had been a good one.

Day 1 (Saturday, 12/30/06)

On December 30th, I touched down in Managua, Nicaragua with my traveling companion, Tim. We shuffled through customs, exchanging $10 for a stamp in our passports, picked up our baggage and walked out into the stuffy Nicaraguan air. Rachel, a friend of a friend, was waiting for us, along with the mechanic from the Fe y Esperanza Lutheran church (Arnaldo), who drove. Rachel was reserved but warm, which is typical of Nicaraguans (although Rachel is American..). We exchanged biographical information with her as we swerved through the cities car, bus, bicycle, pedestrian and animal traffic. My first impressions were of a land alive with color and commerce, a people who are comfortable living in close proximity and a country that didn't clean up after its history. Many of the people along the road were selling goods and services - fruit, snacks, gadgets, parts. Bright pink political advertisements for the FLSN and PLC were painted everywhere, leftover from the elections two months past. We drove through what used to be downtown, but was never rebuilt after the 1979 earthquake.

We arrived at Rachel's church and I gave her an envelope containing, among other things, a thousand dollar check from their sister-church in Baltimore, where my friend Dave Schott attends. Delivering these items served as a useful "in" with Rachel. She helped us flag down a coyote on the street and exchange currency. Then we went back to the church, where she was scheduled to play her flute in a wedding. Tim and I spent some time in a cybercafé, and then sat in rocking chairs outside the church. Waiting for the wedding to start, we played "school" with a delightful 3 year old girl named Brittany from the house next door. The w
edding started a good half hour late, and they keyboardist had to play "Here Comes the Bride" three times before the bride came. The marriage was between a Swiss man and a Nicaraguan woman. They had already been married in Switzerland, but they came back to perform the ceremony again for the woman's relatives. Offering baskets were passed around as the couple left and the attendees pulled out purple flower petals, tossing them into the air as the twice newly weds got into their car and drove away.

After the service, we caught a cab to Rachel's house, where we met Martin, her housemate from Germany. For dinner, we all walked to a neighborhood "Fritanga," an outdoor street café. Fritangas serve traditional fried Nica dishes - I had Gallo Pinto, Tacos de re-pollo, and fried planchas from the grill, with a delicious blended fruit drink. I also ordered a salad, which was not advised by the Johns Hopkins travel clinic, but washed to satisfaction according to our server and chef. It may have been the cheapest most filling meal of the trip. A warm night, good conversation. Martin, we learned, is associated with the Bavarian Lutheran Church and is completing a mandatory period of volunteer service at Fe y Esperanza. All young Germans must serve in the armed forces for nine months, or else choose some alternative ("Zivildienst," i.e. civilian service). Interestingly, conscientious objectors outnumber those who join the armed forces in Germany today. Martin has been working primarily with the church's youth group, who we would meet later in the trip.

After dinner we made our way past some kids performing with a drum, trumpet and a big dancing puppet. It was a distinctly Nicaraguan scene. They were having fun, I think, but they also presented me with my first opportunity to either shuffle past or reach into my pocket for some cordobas. Walking, we found a shop that sold
Toña in half liter bottles, stocked up, and spent the rest of the night on the back patio, talking. Tim and Martin ended up dominating the conversation, discussing the merits of various American seminaries that Martin is interested in applying to. Rachel and I politely pried our way out from the circle as the evening wore on and went to bed. As I lay on the guest mat on the floor, with a comfortable night breeze blowing through the window, I was tired but very happy to have been greeted in this new place with such hospitality.

***Promised Martin I'd email him names of seminary contacts. Martinwag@gmx.net***